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Perumahan Cirebon RAMAYANA RESIDENCE Investasi TerBaik di Lokasi Strategis
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antique furniture, caning is usually handwoven. It is threaded through individual holes in the frame and woven in strand by strand. This type of caning should be replaced by a professional. In most newer furniture, the cane is prewoven. An entire sheet of cane is attached in a groove around the open frame. Sheet cane is easy to replace.
Start by removing the old cane. If you can, pull the cane out of the groove, using a chisel to pry up the spline that holds it. If the spline is stubborn, you may have to soak the area with a towel soaked in very hot water and wrung almost dry. When the adhesive has softened, place a block of wood under the caning and tap the block with a hammer. This should dislodge the caning and the spline from the seat frame. After removing the cane, clean out the groove with a chisel. Make sure it’s completely clean and dry before you install the new cane.
To replace the cane, buy a new spline and new prewoven sheet caning, about 1 to 11/2 inches larger all around than the opening. Make sure the spline is the right width for the groove. Soak the cane and the spline in warm water for about 10 to 15 minutes to soften the fiber.
When the spline and the cane are pliable, blot them dry with a towel. Lay the caning over the groove, shiny side up. Starting at the center of one short side, pound the edge of the caning into the groove with a narrow wood wedge — cut the wedge from a 1 X 2 or a 1 X 3, and use a hammer to tap it along the caning.
The bottom of the taper on the wedge should be slightly smaller than the groove. Work along the side of the frame toward the corners, wedging the cane firmly and squarely down into the groove. If the cane isn’t securely wedged, it will come loose.
When the first side of the cane is in place, clamp the caned edge between two pieces of 1 X 2 or 1 X 3 to prevent the caning from popping out of the groove. Then stretch the sheet of cane across the frame and wedge the opposite side, starting at the center and working out.
Repeat the procedure, clamping each side as you go, to secure the remaining sides. As you work, the caning may start to dry out. If necessary, rewet it to keep it pliable.
When the caning has been tapped into the groove all around the frame, trim off any excess at the outside corner of the groove. Set a sharp chisel into the groove to cut the cane. Then lay a narrow bead of white glue all around the groove on top of the caning.
Blot the spline dry, and force it into the groove over the caning, using a wooden or rubber mallet to drive it into the groove. Pull the spline tight as you go, and ease it around the corners. You may have to install the spline in several pieces; if so, make sure the ends butt together tightly to form a continuous spline. Finally, wipe off any excess glue.
Let the glue and the cane dry completely. As it dries, the caning will become taut. Let the job set for at least a week before you use it.
Many people would agree that the most important part of a chair is where you sit. A wooden chair seat that is split or needs to be replaced will be an obvious spot for you to perform repairs.
Split chair seats can be repaired with a series of 1/8-inch dowels (wooden pegs) along the break and reinforced with metal mending plates. The seat must be completely removed for doweling.
MEGA Furniture
Repair a split chair seat with a series of
1/8-inch dowels, glued about 4 inches apart
along the split. Clamp the seat firmly
until the glue is completely cured.
Drill holes for the dowels in each side of the broken seat, about 1 inch deep (or as deep as possible) and spaced about 4 to 6 inches apart. Use a doweling jig, clamped to the broken seat, to drill the dowel holes. Dowel center points can also be used, but they aren’t as accurate. Cut and score each dowel as above, 1/4 inch less than the total length of the dowel holes.
Apply glue to one end of each dowel, and insert the dowels into the holes along one side of the broken seat; then apply glue to the protruding dowel ends and to the broken edge, and join the two parts. Tap the pieces of the seat together with a rubber or wooden mallet, and wipe off any excess glue. Lightly clamp the glued seat, and let it dry for at least two days. For extra strength, you can add metal mending plates to span the break, as above — four plates should be adequate. Finally, reassemble the chair.
Inserting Chair Seats
Chair seats set in or on frames are usually boards or plywood covered with padding and cloth. These seats seldom split, but when they do the simplest solution is to replace the seat with a new piece of plywood — 3/8-inch thickness is best. If 3/8-inch plywood won’t fit properly after the padding has been added, you may have to use 1/4-inch plywood, but anything less than this will not provide the needed support. Use the old chair seat as a template or pattern to cut out the new one.
Padded chair seats are usually held to the frame with screws driven through glue blocks. Look carefully for these screws; the cloth covering the padding may hide them. Remove all fasteners, and replace them the same way to hold the new chair seat.
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For a stronger repair, dowel the seat together;
then reinforce the doweled seat with metal
mending plates set across the break.
Finally, reassemble the chair.
If the upholstery on insert seats is worn or damaged, it can easily be replaced. Dining room chairs are usually padded with cotton batting. Some chairs have foam padding or a combination of foam and cotton. Both types of padding are available precut for chair seats. For most chairs, the padding should be about 3/4 inch to 1 inch thick.
To recover an insert chair seat, remove the seat from the chair. The seat is usually a piece of plywood, held to the chair frame by screws; the screws may be counterbored into the frame or may go up through the corner glue blocks. Remove the tacks or staples that hold the old upholstery fabric to the seat, and lift off the fabric. Refinish the chair, if necessary, before proceeding further.
Using the old fabric as a pattern, cut the new fabric to fit. If the old padding on the chair seat is in good shape, it can be reused; if it’s damaged, replace it with new padding. You may be able to fluff and smooth old cotton padding; if it’s badly flattened, add a layer of foam padding to build the seat cushion up to 3/4 to 1 inch.
Lay the new fabric flat, wrong side up, and center the padded seat on it upside down. Fold the edges of the fabric up over the seat, stretching it firmly onto the plywood; if desired, tape the fabric firmly down with masking tape. Starting at the center of one side, fold the fabric under and attach it to the seat with a staple gun using heavy-duty staples. If the new fabric is very heavy, flathead upholstery tacks may be more secure. Set staples or tacks 1 to 11/2 inches apart along the side of the seat.
MEGA Furniture
Insert seats consist of a board or plywood seat base covered
with padding and then fabric. The seat rests in or on
the chair frame, and is usually secured with screws.
When the first side is completely attached, restretch the fabric; then staple or tack the opposite side. Turn the seat over and smooth the padding. Be sure the fabric is straight, with no wrinkles. Then turn the seat over again, and fasten the other two sides. At the corners, fold the fabric in to miter it neatly; if necessary, staple or tack each layer separately. Finally, staple a scrap piece of the new fabric to the seat, in case repairs are necessary in the future. Replace the chair seat in the frame, and resecure it. Replace all the screws, and tighten them firmly.
As you’ve seen, chairs take a lot of abuse and, therefore, need a lot of repairs. The same goes for the legs and feet on heavy furniture. We’ll show you how to make these fixes in the next section.
Buying children’s furniture takes a lot of planning. It could even be a slightly more complicated process than furnishing other rooms, because this space actually belongs to someone else: your child. These tips just might make your job easier.
Use Space Saving Options
Most children’s rooms are not very large, and must serve a variety of functions. Therefore, it makes sense to have furniture that performs double duty, such as headboards that also perform as bookcases, or storage chests that double as stairs. Toy chests can double as seats.
Bunk beds are great if two children are sharing a room, or even for sleepovers. The Spokane Bunk Bed from Powell Furniture is a popular choice. You can also add trundle drawers to the bottom for extra storage.
Consider Safety
Make sure to buy sturdy furniture that has been well put together. It should be able to withstand rough use. Make sure there are no obvious safety hazards, such as loose safety rails on bunk beds, or ladders that are flimsy or not fastened securely.
If you are using older furniture make sure the paint doesn’t contain lead. If you are going to paint the furniture yourself, it is a good idea to use water based paints.
You should also research if there are any safety issues with the furniture you are considering buying.
Pay Attention to Style
You know what pieces you need to buy, you’ve checked all the safety issues, and now you have to decide the style of your child’s furniture.
Before you buy, make sure you know how long you want to keep the furniture. Children grow and develop at an amazing pace, and their tastes can change drastically within a short time span. If you don’t want to change the furniture frequently, you might want to stay away from theme oriented pieces that you know your child will outgrow quickly
If you want to echo the style from the rest of your home, most furniture manufacturers have a juvenile furniture department that is a modified version of their adult furniture.
Ashley’s Cottage Retreat and Cherry Cordial youth bedroom collections are examples.
Dress up the room with colorful bedding, rugs, pillows, and toys to give it the look that you and your child will love.
Wicker patio furniture does not require much care and cleaning, making it a user friendly material for patios, porches and other outdoor spaces. It is also quite hardy, so it can be left outside for long periods of time without fear of deterioration, unless you live in a very extreme climate zone.
What is Wicker?
Wicker patio furniture is easy to care for, but you may have to brush it every now and then to keep it dust free. Keeping it clean will extend its life because dust or other organic material can collect in the crevices of the weave and cause mildew and decay.
Although wicker that is made for outdoor use can stay outdoors pretty much around the year, you should be aware that when the weather is too cold, it can become stiff, or a bit more elastic when it is very hot. Also, too much moisture can make it sag and cause mildew.
A simple solution for extending your wicker furniture’s lifespan could be to cover it up or move it to a more protected spot when the temperature is too hot, cold or raining. It may not be getting much use under those conditions anyway.
It is a good idea to inspect the weave from time to time, and if there has been any shifting, simply move the weave back into place with your fingers.
Wicker furniture is often painted, and the finish can become damaged over time. Touch-up spray paint can be used to fix it. Check your manufacturer’s recommendation. If the frame has a painted finish, it can also benefit from fixing the paint every now and then.
Cleaning Wicker Furniture
If your wicker furniture becomes dirty, you may want to vacuum it.
If vacuuming is not enough, use a sponge with mild detergent and warm water to remove soil. Rinse and allow to dry completely before you use the wicker furniture again.
Hosing off the furniture can work too, but don’t use very high pressure. After hosing off, make sure to inspect the weave to see that the pressure from water has not moved it from its place. If needed use your fingers to set it right again.
Never use a foam cleaner, as the foam could lodge into the areas between the woven strands and collect there, ultimately causing damage.
Never use damp wicker furniture, as you could cause it to sag.
If you want to buy outdoor furniture, you must give it the same consideration as buying indoor furniture. After all, your objective is the same: you want a comfortable and attractive space where you can relax or entertain, maybe do both.
Consider Your Weather
Is your weather hot and dry, or do you live near the coast. Does it rain often? All these are important considerations for selecting outdoor furniture. Hot, dry conditions can make some wood splinter and crack. Strong winds can send aluminum furniture flying, and wicker will not withstand constant exposure to moisture.
Measure Your Space
Consider how much space you have, and how it is shaped. Is it a long and narrow balcony or a broad and wide terrace? Use the area and shape of your balcony, patio or porch to determine the size of your outdoor furniture. Make sure to leave enough space around your furniture to be able to walk comfortably. Apply the same principles for traffic flow that you would use indoors.
For a small space, a bar table set may work better than a regular dining set, because bar stools can also save you room. You can also take a look at café or bistro tables and chairs as they have a smaller profile.
Determine Where You Will Place Your Furniture
Is your patio or outdoor space exposed to the elements or do you have an overhead covering? Will your furniture rest on soft ground and grass or on a hard surface such as a wooden deck or a paved patio? Make sure to get materials that will be a good match for your environment.
Do not place soft woods such as pine on a grassy surface and in an exposed area. The moisture from the ground can cause the wood to rot. On the other hand resin furniture is impervious to it.
Consider patio umbrellas for shade if you get too much sun.
Decide on Material
What kind of materials do you like for outdoor furniture? Don’t just base your decision on how it looks, although that is a big consideration, too. Your weather plays a big role in determining if a material is good fit.
So does the amount of care that a material needs. Some outdoor materials such as aluminum do not need too much care, neither does teak or resin furniture. Wrought iron can last for a really long time and can take heat and moisture.
Pay Attention to Comfort